What about water?
I USE TAP WATER, filtered through a counter-top carbon cartridge. Chlorine can be neutralized with the cheap sodium thiosulfate (photographers 'hypo') based chemicals, or simply aged for a few hours. Most U.S. cities now have added Chloramine, which can be deadly in massive water changes. Products like AmQuel are said to neutralize the chlorine part of the molecule and bind the ammonia, making it harmless. This may be suitable for small operations, but is expensive if you have many tanks. Here's a picture of my water setup:
Besides the water filter, you'll see most all of the gear and supplies I use for water treament. An invauable tool I use every day is a timer. You can NOT walk away from a bucket that is filling from the tap -- or from a siphon that is drawing water OFF a tank. My little timer clips on my lapel, as shown in the picture on the right. In 3 minutes, it chirps loud for another minute. If it goes past 4 minutes, then the War Department may find water spots on the downstairs ceiling. Needless to say, I have a goodly supply of big beach towels close at hand for those little accidents, like when the siphon hose somehow turns into a live snake...
The carbon filter removes more than just chlorine and chloramines -- it also takes out
any other organic contaminants. Some breeders have solved their "fry dying"
problems with this, when nothing else 
helped!
My setup has another advantage: I can mix hot and cold water so that my make-up water is
85F. Even a 90% change doesn't stress the fish. They love my water, and the roller
coaster ride when I dump it in. The braver ones rush up to bite the air bubbles. If your
make-up water is cold, then set the bucket on top of the tank and siphon it in with small
bore tubing. You can tie a knot in it to REALLY slow it down, if needed. BUT... don't
leave the room where ANY siphoning is going on!
How can I tell when the carbon filter is exhausted? After it's a few months old, I keep a small tank set up with culls, runts, and weak-looking fish. I don't clean it, to add even more stress. Once a week (Mondays) I do a 95% change. If they all live for an hour after that, then the filter is still working. This is called bio-assay, and it's superior to the dippy tests they sell in the pet shops.
While Angels can tolerate some extremes, bad conditions cause stress, limit growth size, and inhibit breeding. The Krib's FAQ's on Water Treatment faq.thekrib.com/begin-tapwater.html and Practical Water Chemistry faq.thekrib.com/begin-chem.html cover the essentials. Angels don't need 'cycled' water, they LOVE fresh water! They can tolerate pH from 6.0 to 8.5, and moderate hardness (up to 200 dH) and salinity (as high as 600ppm -- 0.6% -- that's what humans drink in New Orleans, my old home town), but abrupt changes can be deadly. For fry in the hatching stage and the first month, pH should be between 6.5 and 7.5, and hardness below 80 dH. Regular treated tap water may be introduced slowly after your fry are three or four weeks old. Common Silver and Gold strains may be more tolerant that fancy types. If you're not sure, buy bottled water (ask for an analyisis showing the pH and dH) or gallon jugs of deionized or distilled water.
Home-type water softeners exchange Sodium for Calcium and Magnesium salts, which might be all you need, since NaCl, table salt, is relatively harmless.Carbon filtration won't reduce Ca, Mg, or Na salts, but you can use ion-exchange resin cartridges, or Reverse Osmosis (R/O) water purifiers. R/O purifiers waste about 5 gallons of water for each gallon they clean. Some of these options can get expensive: a gallon of distilled water costs more than a gallon gasoline... it takes a lot more energy to boil water. Some aquarists condition water in algae farm tanks, but if you keep these uncovered out of doors, you can introduce dangerous parasites to your fish.
Angels can typically survive water that isn't cycled, but they thrive on frequent water changes. 25 to 50% daily is best, but 10% weekly is adequate in uncrowded tanks. Infrequent changes are survivable and can serve as birth control, when you're over-populated... but not too long, or you'll get cloudy water and fin rot. Smell your water, feel your temperature, look for slime. Neglected tanks get nitrogen buildup, pH drops to very low levels (I had a tank of culls get down to a pH of 5!), fish get stressed and die.
Here's a changing routine. Plastic buckets get slimy from bacteria buildups. Scrub with a clean cloth or Dobie pad and hot water, finishing with a rinse of cold Chlorinated tap water. Scrub your hands and arms while you're at it, and dry with a clean bath towel. Avoid soaps and oils.
Once a week, remove the sponge filter(s) to an empty bucket. If any are plugged or slimy, replace with a clean ones, preferably from a tank with two working filters. Plugged sponge filters can cleaned by squeezing in a strong soap solution, followed by lots of rinses. I use dry dishwasher powder; it has fewer chemical additives than some other soaps.
Use a siphon wand of
flexible vinyl tubing to clear solid waste from the bare tank bottom. Add a length of
rigid acrylic tubing for better control -- or in large bore tubing, insert a stiff coat
hanger wire. I recently made a vacuum brush tool, using a denture toothbrush, drilled,
and cemented to an acrylic wand with epoxy glue. Rigid acrylic and flexible PVC (vinyl)
tubing in the larger sizes can be purchased at home-brew supply stores. Another tip...
it's MUCH easier to see dirt on a tank bottom if you spray painted it black, or sit the
tank on a dark cloth or towel. BUT if you're rasing black fry, you may prefer light
colors, or you won't see the little guys and cleaning will become very tricky.
Use a small piece of terrycloth (or Dobie scouring pad with the sponge removed) to wipe scum from the top tank edge before refilling, or wipe the whole tank if it's grungy. If you don't mind the appearance, you could leave all but the bottom and front glass alone; organisms that grow there can help reduce nitrogen wastes. Move slowly, and feed a treat before and after the work to reduce nervous nelly nose-bonking. If an aggressive fish or breeding parent dashes up to bite you, don't flinch -- Angels have tiny mouths, and can't hurt you.
